The ‘double C’ logo, the quilted leather bag, the wool skirt suit, the camellia motif… are some of the emblematic pieces of the French fashion house that maintain their glamor and remain in fashion. After the V&A museum dedicated to designers Alexander McQueen It is Christian Dior exhibitions as fashion super-producers, it’s time for Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.

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In September 2023, the London museum will open a retrospective dedicated to Coco Chanel’s impact on the world of fashion. We just learned some details about the exhibition.

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is an exhibition that was very successful in Coco’s home country, at the Galliera palace, headquarters of the fashion museum in the city of Paris. The exhibition will feature more than 200 looks, as well as lesser-known accessories, perfumes and jewelry from the V&A’s private collection.

Some of the first surviving Chanel clothes from 1916, original costumes designed by her for the production of Russian ballets will be on display. Le Train Blue in 1924, costumes for Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall It is Marlene Dietrich, and an early example of the French couturier’s revolutionary evening trousers and ensembles from the latest 1971 collection. The pieces will be divided into 10 sections, with catchy titles such as “The Invisible Accessory” (the creation and impact of Gabrielle Chanel’s first #5); “Cerramos la Casa” (the impact of the outbreak of war) and “When night falls” (a tribute to evening gowns).

The exhibition traces the designer’s career from opening her first millinery boutique in 1910 to her last collection in 1971, examining how her personal sense of style influenced her designs and forever changed the way women dress. In the era of the corset and wide skirts – exemplified by Christian Dior’s “New Look” – Chanel focused on menswear, more specifically on the sportswear worn by the British upper class on country weekends. . It was a world she knew well: she had a relationship with the English polo player chapel boy for many years and it is said that Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster, had a huge crush on her (the double C logo is still present on lampposts in Westminster). He incorporated many of these masculine flourishes into his pieces, using tweed and wool and popularizing women’s pants and knits.

“Chanel, one of the most successful fashion houses in the world, owes much to the standards that its founder, Gabrielle Chanel, set more than a century ago,” said the V&A director, Tristram Hunt. “We are delighted to collaborate with Chanel and Galliera Palace in organizing this exhibition, which gives us the opportunity to explore the origins and some key pieces of this enduring style, and to showcase little-known Chanel historical garments that form part of the Chanel collection. GO.”

“Gabrielle Chanel has boldly redefined the modern woman’s wardrobe. We are truly honored and delighted that the V&A, such an important museum and institution, is hosting the first UK retrospective of her work. fashion, as well as the incredible relevance and permanence of the Chanel style, this exhibition will highlight one of the greatest visionaries of our time,” he said. Bruno PavlovskyPresident of Fashion at Chanel.

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Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster, with Coco Chanel, 1924

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, from 16th September 2023 to 25th February 2024. Exhibition organized in association with Galliera Palace, City of Paris Fashion Museum, Paris museums and with the endorsement of Chanel.

Article published by Tatler and translated by Isabel Escribano Bourgoin. access the original here.